The Flavors of Florence for ENTREE Magazine

This just came out in ENTREE, the beautiful, glossy magazine for Neiman Marcus INCIRCLE members. Thanks to Alice Doyle and Karen Carroll for this great assignment. In the article, I write about some of my favorite foods in Florence including lusty crostini di fegatini at CAMMILLO, almond granita at CARABE, and pork arista sandwiches at NERBONE, the stand-up lunch counter at the mercato. Thanks to the extraordinary ROBERTO FRANKENBERG for these gorgeous photos. Also, check out Louise Fili’s book, The Civilized Shopper’s Guide to Florence.

5 comments... read them below or add one


  1. February 4, 2009 12:53 pm by Pierino Reply


    There are few things that make me happier than pieces of pork stuffed into a roll.

    Here’s my version of the sandwich that I grew to love from eating it at weekly market days in Umbria. I can’t remember the first time I tasted porchetta but it was probably on the way to a soccer match (they don’t sell food or alcohol inside the stadiums) where I bought one off a truck with a whole, smiling pig in the back from which the cook was taking big slices.


    One small kitchen triumph! I’ve finally nailed down a way to reproduce the wonderful porchetta sandwiches of Umbria and Lazio without spitting a whole pig. I’ve been eating this lovely snack from off of trucks in farmers markets and outside of football stadiums for many years. One of the things I like about this preparation is that you get a toothsome bit of crispy skin with almost every slice.

    A fist full of kosher salt
    1 TBS white pepper
    3-4 cloves garlic, minced
    2 shallots minced
    1 bunch chives finely chopped
    2 TBS fennel pollen, or alternatively fennel seed ground in a spice grinder.
    Several branches of fresh rosemary (tear the leaves off, and if possible pick the flowers if any). Finely chop the leaves and reserve the flowers whole.
    1 cup good olive oil and a little more for rubbing.
    Mix the herbs with all but about 1 tbs of olive oil.

    Fresh ham such as a picnic shoulder , bone in (you will bone it out or your butcher will), about 5 pounds.

    1 ½ cups white wine for basting.

    Once you have boned out the ham* spread it open and slash the skin in a diamond shape pattern. Turn it over and slash some pockets into the meat, being careful not to cut all the way through to the skin and fat layer. Rub about ¾ of the herb and olive oil mixture into the flesh. If you have the edible flowers add them now before tieing. Meanwhile preheat oven to 450.

    Reform the ham and then tie it up like a salami or a fetish model, preferably using one long piece of cooking twine.

    Rub the tied up ham with olive oil and more coarse salt and then more of the herb/oil mix.

    Place in a roasting pan and after 20 minutes in the hot oven baste with white wine and turn heat down to about 350. Baste every 20 minutes with more wine and pan juices until the internal temp reaches 160. Allow to rest, covered for ten minutes before slicing very thinly. Sandwich this up with crusty bread rolls—no other condiments are required.

    *If you have the butcher bone out your ham please do ask to keep the ham bone. Use it for a stock for beans or soup or whatever.

    Ciao, Bill

  2. February 19, 2009 10:23 am by Brittany Gwynn Graham Reply

    Your piece about Florence is beautiful. I think about you a lot and hope all is well! Look forward to catching your episode of Iron Chef on the Food Network.
    Miss you and your chocolate!

  3. February 24, 2009 3:00 pm by Julie Y. Reply

    Hi Kim! I was thrilled to read a blog post today on a friends blog about your book Trail of Crumbs. Her post led me to your site, where I saw your piece about Florence. It made me jump up out of my seat in excitement. I am headed to study abroad on Rome for 3 months this coming Saturday. I am going to be traveling in and around Italy (yes…Florence) while I am abroad. I would love to hear more in depth about your experiences in Italy. You are a talented individual! I look forward to reading your book, Trail of Crumbs, as well as follow your blog! Take caRE!

    Happy Tuesday!

  4. March 13, 2009 11:30 am by Cate O'Malley Reply

    Sounds like a fabulous trip! I lived in Sicily for a year when I was a kid, and I’d love to go back once the kids are a bit older. Until then, I’m going to live vicariously through you!

  5. January 11, 2010 4:27 am by Glyn Reply

    Thanks for making this known, I’ve lived in Florence for 10 years now and I love reading about anything related to my new place of residence. I find out something new about the area every day.

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