When I was a little girl, hot summers in New Orleans always signified outdoor seafood boils and fresh cold watermelon. My grandmother used to take the salt shaker and lavishly sprinkle her wedge of melon. As a child, I found this cruel and unusual. That was before I got to France and [...]

This was part of our last lunch at Le Comptoir du Relais before having to leave for Roissy. Stuffed Cabbage, Camborde-style, and sweetbreads with braised chestnuts and raisins. Roberto had the Poularde facon poule au pot (see post below) and Jennifer went back to her first love, deep and dark fork-tender beef cheeks [...]

This is really very easy to make and perfect when you’ve had a little too much foie gras (yes, it’s possible-see the posts below). Open a bottle of Deutz Champagne and enlist your friends to prepare the green beans. Promise them Ruinart if the Deutz does not work.
Heat extra virgin olive oil and [...]

I’m addicted to Le Comptoir. I need my comptoir lunch fix at least 3 or 4 times during a week’s stay in the city. I really do try to go elsewhere but I just can’t stay away from Yves Camborde’s cooking. A problem when I dine at restaurants is this: I have to [...]

Winter lettuces are abundant and ready for the eating, raw and crisp with a simple vinaigrette (extra virgin olive oil, fresh lemon juice, fleur de sel and a crack of pepper) or topped with a poached egg and a few sauteed lardons.

I am thankful
for airplanes and pilots and hot fried chicken
for open kitchens and French raw milk cheese.
For running water and electricity
for literacy and words and the dictionary.
For my notebook and my pen and the Mac genius bar
even though I would be more thankful if they served cocktails
like Lillet blanc or mad Champagne.
I [...]

I love being in France this time of year when my favorite winter cheese is in season. (The Mont d’Or is best at room temperature served up with a spoon.) It’s also the time to celebrate Belon oysters and Tarte Tatin, clementines and chestnuts, marrons glacés and nougat glacé and salted caramel apples. Champagne, [...]

Even tuna, it seems, can be chic in Paris, especially if you are tuna turned into a Terrine with herbs and displayed at the equally chic La Grande Epicerie du Bon Marché.

More tuna with tapenade and sauteed zucchini and green beans at Le Comptoir.

My favorite remedy for jet lag in Paris is to head straight to 9, carrefour de l’Odéon to LE COMPTOIR, a no reservations lunch spot. You can find past posts here It’s always good to hear that deep weathered voice of France as she smiles, kisses me hello with promises of a table [...]

I am about to go on book tour with the release of Trail of Crumbs, which was yesterday. Before heading out, I wanted to post some belated words and images from a recent trip to Paris…

I always go to le comptoir du relais and have a bite as soon as I arrive. Here’s [...]

I’ve sent many emails to friends about where and what to eat in Paris, so I’ve decided to post it here. (I lived in Paris and Provence for ten years before moving back to the States.) Please note dates and if you have visited one of these places more recently, I’d love to hear an [...]

Paris, March 2007