As we prep for the celebratory Pizza Party (to celebrate 20 years of Frances and Ed in Cortona), I find myself in the kitchen with a sweet Italian man named Ivan and his robust and big-hearted mother, Domenica, who live just up the gravel road at the “House of the Sun.” Together, we [...]

This was part of our last lunch at Le Comptoir du Relais before having to leave for Roissy. Stuffed Cabbage, Camborde-style, and sweetbreads with braised chestnuts and raisins. Roberto had the Poularde facon poule au pot (see post below) and Jennifer went back to her first love, deep and dark fork-tender beef cheeks [...]

I’m addicted to Le Comptoir. I need my comptoir lunch fix at least 3 or 4 times during a week’s stay in the city. I really do try to go elsewhere but I just can’t stay away from Yves Camborde’s cooking. A problem when I dine at restaurants is this: I have to [...]

My favorite remedy for jet lag in Paris is to head straight to 9, carrefour de l’Odéon to LE COMPTOIR, a no reservations lunch spot. You can find past posts here It’s always good to hear that deep weathered voice of France as she smiles, kisses me hello with promises of a table [...]

I love to sit at the open counter here and watch recent James Beard nominee, Chris Hastings, and his talented chefs, Chris Zapalowski (formerly of Emeril’s and Peristyle in New Orleans), and Bill Schleusner (of Cafe Boulud) cook up everything from Henry Fudge’s pork trio to Shrimp and Grits. For a voluptuous dessert, they [...]