I’m addicted to Le Comptoir. I need my comptoir lunch fix at least 3 or 4 times during a week’s stay in the city. I really do try to go elsewhere but I just can’t stay away from Yves Camborde’s cooking. A problem when I dine at restaurants is this: I have to order last so I can decide according to what everyone else has ordered and then I’m still torn –I want to taste it all. Luckily, I have very tolerant (and hungry) friends who know they will end up finishing whatever it is I do finally decide on.
Yesterday, though, I regretted not ordering the poularde façon poule au pot. So, today, after toast de pain de mie and foie gras, a plate of wild mushrooms with sauteed foie gras, I ordered the poule au pot.

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Poule au pot is basically a whole chicken in a pot simmered in broth and served with white rice. A simple and satisfying Sunday supper. Of course, in the brilliant mind and hands of Yves Camborde, the chicken is taken off the bone, stuffed with herbs and stuffing, reconstituted and then wrapped in skin and served over a thick and creamy risotto-like accompaniment, topped with frothy “broth” and garnished with almonds.

This is the time of year for Tarte Tatin (upside-down apple pie, named after the Tatin sisters). I love it with creme fraîche, but here it’s just as good served with vanilla bean ice cream and chocolate sauce.