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Guest Post by Dan Schumacher: Sweet, Tart Strawberry Ice Cream



By kim ~ July 29th, 2010. Filed under: Food, Guest Posts, food writing, recipes.  Email to a Friend

Strawberry Ice Cream Prep. Photo by Caleb Chancey / calebchanceyphotography.com

Strawberry Ice Cream Prep. Photo by Caleb Chancey / calebchanceyphotography.com

Crazy ice cream flavors have their place, just not in my kitchen. I can’t say I don’t enjoy a scoop of Ben & Jerry’s Fossil Fuel now and then but when I started making ice cream last year, I wanted to take pure, natural flavors and let them shine in new and interesting combinations. Buttermilk, with its smooth acidic richness was my first subject.

Strawberry Ice Cream: Straining. Photo by Caleb Chancey / calebchanceyphotography.com

Strawberry Ice Cream: Straining. Photo by Caleb Chancey / calebchanceyphotography.com

Starting with a solid base flavor, it evolved into one of my favorite sweet, tart summertime mixes: strawberry-buttermilk. The process of making a French, custard-based ice cream is a little more involved than the all-milk Philadelphia style, but the result is decadent and has a longer stable life in your freezer. I’ve found that custard-based ice creams last up to 1 week verses a few days with Philadelphia.

Strawberry Ice Cream: Cooking Custard. Photo by Caleb Chancey / calebchanceyphotography.com

Strawberry Ice Cream: Cooking Custard. Photo by Caleb Chancey / calebchanceyphotography.com

This ice cream is pure simplicity and elegance. Perfectly ripe strawberries, some lemon, buttermilk and creme fraiche (or sour cream) to balance the berries’ sweetness and add an acidic tang, and heavy cream to mellow it all out make this a flavor I keep coming back to over and over again. Since developing it, I have substituted blackberries and blueberries to great effect (though my first love is the strawberry).

Strawberry Ice Cream: Spinning. Photo by Caleb Chancey / calebchanceyphotography.com

Strawberry Ice Cream: Spinning. Photo by Caleb Chancey / calebchanceyphotography.com

I dislike nebulous directions in a recipe and have come to love the candy thermometer when cooking a custard for ice cream. The FDA recommends cooking eggs to a temperature of 160 degrees, so instead of waiting for the eggs to ‘coat the back of your wooden spoon,’ I just wait until the thermometer tells me they’re done. If you like an eggier flavor, let the custard cook until it gets closer to 175 degrees, but you will need to be extra vigilant to make sure they don’t begin curdling (because who wants scrambled eggs in their ice cream?).

Strawberry Ice Cream: Frozen! Photo by Caleb Chancey / calebchanceyphotography.com

Strawberry Ice Cream: Frozen! Photo by Caleb Chancey / calebchanceyphotography.com

Kim Sunee and I both use the Cuisinart 1-1/2-Quart Ice-Cream Maker . It’s one of the less expensive makers, is easy to use, and cranks out 1 1/2 quarts of frozen wonder in about 20 minutes. For those who don’t have an ice cream maker, do not despair–ice cream maverick David Lebovitz, author of The Perfect Scoop and more recently Ready for Dessertposted a no-machine solution on his blog.

Strawberry Ice Cream: Ready to Eat. Photo by Caleb Chancey / calebchanceyphotography.com

Strawberry Ice Cream: Ready to Eat. Photo by Caleb Chancey / calebchanceyphotography.com

Strawberry Buttermilk Ice Cream

1 cups heavy whipping cream
4 large egg yolks
3/4 cups sugar
1 cups buttermilk
1/2 cup crème fraîche (or sour cream)
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 lb strawberries, trimmed and quartered (1 1/2 cups puree)
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Bring cream to simmer in heavy medium saucepan. Whisk egg yolks and sugar in medium bowl to blend. Gradually whisk hot cream into yolk mixture. Return mixture to saucepan and stir constantly over medium-low heat until custard is thick enough to coat back of spoon (160 to 175 degrees), about 3 minutes (do not boil). Pour custard through fine strainer into clean bowl.

Add buttermilk, crème fraîche, and salt. Chill custard in an ice bath until cold.

Purée strawberries in a blender until smooth, then force through fine sieve (to remove seeds) and add lemon juice. Stir purée into custard.

Spin custard in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer ice cream to containers; cover and freeze until firm, at least 4 hours.

Dan Schumacher is a freelance writer, editor, and recipe tester based in Birmingham, Alabama. He edited with Kim at Cottage Living and previously worked with Food Arts and Gourmet Magazine. For more of his writing, head over to aisle-9.net or Good Taste. Caleb Chancey, whose photography was featured in this post, is a Birmingham, Alabama-based photographer. A few more shots from this story are on Flickr and please look to calebchanceyphotography.com for more of Caleb’s work.

Under the Tuscan Sun: 65 pizzas, 75 guests, and 2 tired pizzaioli



By kim ~ July 12th, 2010. Filed under: Italy, Olive Oil, Tuscany, food and travel, food/travel.  Email to a Friend

As we prep for the celebratory Pizza Party (to celebrate 20 years of Frances and Ed in Cortona), I find myself in the kitchen with a sweet Italian man named Ivan and his robust and big-hearted mother, Domenica, who live just up the gravel road at the “House of the Sun.” Together, we make pizza dough with “00” flour, a good dose of Bramasole olive oil, salt, and water. No measuring. I’ve been making pizza in Alaska for Neil and his family and friends since my return from Parma a few weeks ago. But here, I realize, I’ve been doing it all wrong. Ivan’s method suits me better for I am a cook who prefers not to measure, who is always tempted by the last-minute handful of this, and pinch of that.


Frances Mayes and my mountain of pizza dough, Tuscany


Ivan, with one hand constantly in motion, gently turns the flour and water into a beautiful paste. We knead it, cover it and let it rise. After an hour or so, I help pinch out moonballs of dough. Mine are not as smooth as Ivan’s but he assures me that they’re perfect. “OH KAY. Very good.” He gives me thumbs up as we toss and turn and flatten the balls to top with everything from torn basil, whole sage leaves, rosemary, and caramelized onion to fresh Italian sausage and mozzarella. Domenica pats my hips and squeezes my arms, tossing flour about me like fairy dust. Ivan and his mother are wizards in the kitchen yet make me feel that one day, I, too, can know the secret.

the first pizzas of 65....


Someone announces the arrival of a whole roasted pig. The porchetta! Kids squeal at the sight of the whole head, snout, eyes and all. A Korean-Australian musician arrives as well as a chef from Los Angeles, friends from North Carolina, and villagers who have gathered to celebrate 20 years of Frances and Ed here in Cortona. About 75 guests in all. A few hours later, Ivan and I take a break and he tells me we have made 65 pizzas in just a few hours. I am sticky from sweating, the back of my dress covered in Domenica’s large floured hand prints. What a brava ragazza you are, he keeps telling me. No sleep and 65 pizzas. Brava. Brava.

tired and happy, Ivan and I take a break after making 65 pizzas in one afternoon

La Bella Porchetta: the Tuscan Sun Party Continues…



By kim ~ July 12th, 2010. Filed under: Italy, Tuscany, food and travel.  Email to a Friend

As if we didn’t have enough food with 65 pizzas, endless bottles of wine, and a cake to feed 50 or more, Frances ordered up a whole porchetta from a friend who owns a porchetta truck in Florence.
The kids were a little scared of the head, but the beast proved to be the the beauty of the party. The skin was divine, crisp and salty. My friend Robert made little skin sandwiches for me while Ivan and I rolled out pizzas.

Frances contemplating the whole porchetta

porchetta buns, styled by Ivan with sprigs of lavender

La bella porchetta!


I’ve never attempted to make my own porchetta but I’ve had delicious versions of it, rolled and stuffed with fennel seeds, garlic, lots of herbs and crisped til a golden crunch. Do you have a favorite recipe for porchetta or a secret place where you indulge?

Parma Day 2



By kim ~ June 29th, 2010. Filed under: Italy, food and travel.  Email to a Friend

The Osteria La Maesta in Emilia-Romagna is a lovely family-run open-air eatery where the good life is made of simple, delicious bites and a bottle of Malvasia seco frizzante.

Torta Fritta and Prosciutto di Parma, Italy


Addictive fried puffs of dough called Torta Fritta…

prosciutto di Parma in Torta

Parma : Ghirardi Onesto producer of Prosciutto di Parma



By kim ~ June 29th, 2010. Filed under: Italy, food and travel.  Email to a Friend

I was lucky enough to spend the morning inside the Ghirardi Onesto production facility in Langhiarano as a guest of the Consorzio del prosciutto di Parma where, along with Elissa Altman and Rowan Jacobsen, we watched Paolo, the production manager, show us everything from salting the hams to showering (the hams) to testing with a horse bone. More photos and details to come….

Paolo with freshly-showered hams

le club sandwich Italiano



By kim ~ June 20th, 2010. Filed under: Italy, Parma, food and travel.  Email to a Friend

Chef Alberto Rossetti of Michelin star AL TRAMEZZO, Parma

le club sandwich for dessert

Not only did Chef Rossetti pull out all the stops, he also has a tattoo of the prosciutto di Parma crown…on his thigh. He showed it to me on his iphone but would not let me get a photo.

Summer, Lucini, and the Essence of Amalfi…



By kim ~ June 4th, 2010. Filed under: Food, Italy, Olive Oil, recipes.  Email to a Friend

Roasted Tomato Caprese with Amalfi Lemon Lucini olive oil

I’ve been working all week with talented (and hungry) writers in Seaside, FL at the Floating Island Writers’ Workshop. Aside from my editing duties and acting as Camp Director, I’ve been making sure all are well fed. We’ve been able to appreciate fresh local Gulf seafood from Goatfeathers; thankfully, this part of the Gulf hasn’t been hit with the plume, yet…

Summer’s here and nothing sings the season more than fresh salads. Dreaming of Italy–as I do this time of year more than usual–I made a simple salad Caprese as part of our brunch meeting workshop.
If your tomatoes are perfectly vine-ripened, simply slice and pair with mozzarella and basil. If tomatoes aren’t quite ready for eating out of hand, I like to roast cherry or grape tomatoes (at 400° F for about 25 mins.) with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, and some fresh garlic. TO SERVE: Spoon the roasted tomatoes and pan juices over the mozzarella and basil. This is also delicious with slices of sweet and salty prosciutto di Parma.

I’ve always loved Lucini olive oils but recently fell in love with the Delicate Lemon Extra Virgin Olive Oil, a first cold pressed olive oil infused with the flavors of the Limone della Costa d’Amalfi. This highly fragrant lemon grows on terraced hillsides of the Amalfi Coast and is prized for its balance of acidity and perfume. I love how it pairs with the tomatoes and mozzarella.
What to drink? I always consult my friend, Damon Haynes, of Centerba Selections (with owner, Ken Rosati, formerly of Windows on the World) in North Carolina. He says go for Italian and recommends a glass of Grillo or Frappato from Sicilia or a Fonterenza rose di sangiovese from Montalcino.

photo Dan Schumacher


Next up, I want to try Lucini’s savory fig Balsamico and the Fiery Chili Extra Virgin Olive Oil. How would you pair these flavored oils and vinegars?

Afternoon Snack: Chivda, Indian Peanut Trail Mix



By kim ~ May 30th, 2010. Filed under: Books, food and travel, recipes, writing workshops.  Email to a Friend

Suvir Saran decided to toast up some chivda, “Indian Trail Mix” for our book signing at Sundog Books later this afternoon. Thanks to the NATIONAL PEANUT BOARD, we were spoiled with treats–everything from travel peanut butter snacks to delicious ROYAL OAK Peanut Brittle, a favorite of the participating writers.

Suvir Saran making Chivda


Delicious Peanut Squares, courtesy of the National Peanut Board, photo D. Schumacher


As he searches for spices, I hear him say, “We have no black mustard seed, but we have hopes and dreams and so can make anything.”

What goes into the Indian Trail Mix? Thin Poha–rice pasta–grated coconut, curry leaves, raisins, cinnamon stick, Royal Oak peanuts (courtesy of The National Peanut Board), turmeric, paprika, cayenne, a little salt and sugar, thinly sliced serrano or jalapeño chiles–thanks to Korin for a super sharp knife–all toasted in a hot wok with Canola oil.

“It’s a perfect afternoon snack,” Suvir says, “and you can keep it in a sealed container for up to two weeks, if you don’t eat it all first.” I will improvise for now until the recipe is available to all in his forthcoming cookbook.

Chivda Indian Trail Mix

Chivda, Indian Trail Mix, photo Dan Schumacher

Yale: Celebrating Our Sweet and Savory Heritage



By kim ~ May 29th, 2010. Filed under: Books, food writing.  Email to a Friend

View from Berkeley College at Yale, photo by Andrea Nguyen

This is a belated note to say thank you to Yale, Master Marvin Chun of Berkeley College, and students Paulina, Eunju, Jerry, Christine and so many more for hosting a wonderful gathering of students and authors to discuss food, words, and what it means to follow, not what others want for us, but to take a risk and follow what it is we love most.

I was thrilled and honored to be on a panel with Andrea Nguyen and Monica Bhide, both passionate and tireless advocates of all things delicious and true.

The most important thing I reminded myself as well as shared with the students is that it’s important to follow our passions. It took me many years and boarding passes to understand and accept that words, food, and travel would accompany me in the continuous search for a place in the world. It’s been a bittersweet journey and I am grateful to the Yale students who came out to share and listen to our stories.

Also, thanks to Bun Lai, for an entertaining dinner at his popular Miya Sushi .

Yale Master Marvin Chun and Miya's Bun Lai

First Bites: Alaska



By kim ~ May 21st, 2010. Filed under: Alaska, Local Flavor, food and travel.  Email to a Friend

From the moment I landed in Alaska, I have been overwhelmed by the abundant and majestic beauty of this other world, which explains why so many have come here from elsewhere and found a place to call home.
I was fortunate to spend the day with Sue and Paul–former Atlanta residents–who fell in love with this landscape and created an extraordinary sanctuary in the mountains of Chickaloon.
Sue, who knows where to procure the best of the best treated us to the freshest King salmon, simply grilled with salt and pepper–nothing more nothing less. A delicious way to begin my journey here in Alaska. King Salmon

Sue, Paul, Neil

Bears that aren’t Teddy: Alaska and Jim Harrison



By kim ~ May 20th, 2010. Filed under: Uncategorized.  Email to a Friend

The only bear I encountered in Alaska courtesy of the Gunns

I always seem to have a copy of Jim Harrison’s THE RAW AND THE COOKED: ADVENTURES OF A ROVING GOURMAND with me… And while corresponding with Jim–from AK to MT–thought of this essay (excerpted below) as I was searching for wildlife. As I wrote to Jim, “The only bear I saw on this trip was Teddy…”

“The world wonders at the improbable vitality of our trashiness. The world is real tired, and we seem to be getting that way ourselves….There is an inordinate capacity in institutions, whether governments, universities, publishers, or studios, to turn pretty good wine, vintage or not, into distilled water that they hope everyone will want to drink. You have to hold out for the wine, even blood, nights that are actually dark, bears that aren’t teddy, gritty women like you actually know, children who die contorted into question marks, the sun on people who never bought lotion, the human voice not reduced to prattle, animals who have never been watched, the man who cuts all the ropes so he won’t hang himself.” -from “Heart Food in L.A.”

from AL to AK



By kim ~ May 18th, 2010. Filed under: Alaska, Local Flavor, food and travel.  Email to a Friend

ALASKA. How do I get there? I keep thinking I need my passport. I keep dreaming it–coastal forests and low-flying planes, mountains everywhere, an old-fashioned letter of invitation to come.
And I do. I go from BHM to ATL with a brief stop in Minneapolis, where I meet some happy Wisconsin folks at the bar drinking their 5th gin and tonic for the long flight. It is only 9:30 a.m. I wonder if I’m not back in New Orleans. Finally, 14 hours later, I land at ANC and am immediately greeted by Big Sky, cold fresh air, a welcome bouquet of sunflowers before heading to the port city of Seward…

the port city of Seward, Alaska