A note from a friend of mine on the closing of Cottage Living.

Dear Little Sweet Pea:

I heard the bad news early on: The Old Girl fell over and died. Let me say that I was sorry to hear it…You were there from the start…so I can only guess that it is a watershed moment for you…I never saw anything spark so brightly.

Can I tell you something? If you feel that something was lost – something inexplicable, some time wasted – you can talk to me. Here’s the secret. I never won anything: never came in first place, never landed on my feet or made the right move at the right time. I never got the girl. I never learned my lesson. Once, years ago, doubled up behind a wall in Cambodia, I thought, ‘I’ve known Happiness. But I count Disappointment among my friends.’ And yet, there is something grand in losing, especially when you really believed in it. I love the race from there to here, all the cursing and tears. I never learned anything if I didn’t learn it twice, once on the losing end.

When I was a little boy, my daddy used to play a game with me and my siblings, called ‘Left, Right, or Straight Ahead.’ We would all climb into his car at night in our pajamas and drive around Pine Bluff. At each intersection, one of us would get to pick in which direction he drove after he asked, ‘Left, Right, or Straight Ahead?’ During the game, we would travel all around that little town, passing the greatest places on earth, ‘the pancake house’ (a little diner where we ate pancakes on Sunday), the library, and the Pine Bluff Commercial, the newspaper, where my daddy was the city editor. The game was won by whoever directed us passed our own house. I can remember idling in front of our house, slowing down as we passed, and seeing my momma, pretty and breathless, in the lighted window. This was long ago, and I never can find myself in any trouble that I don’t think about that game.

I mean, isn’t it that easy? Just steer me home. Tell me where to go, left, right or straight ahead…

What about you? Which way are you going?

Matthew

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJnhK-sCsZw

Someone sent me this link to Urban Grace Interiors.
And I’ve received many emails about the closing of Cottage Living magazine. Yes, it’s sad. Yes, it seems to be true. We are closing our pages.
It’s been a remarkable journey. I have been fortunate to work with a talented and passionate group of people who have continued to inspire me every single day since our launch in 2004.

Over the past year while on book tour, people have asked: Do you feel at home where you are now?
Although I always have a suitcase within arm’s reach, being part of Cottage Living magazine gave me a sense of home.

I will miss you all. Eleanor, our fearless leader, who is now at the Mothership…lucky, lucky Southern Living staff. Lindsay, who brought us together…we wish you well with all things coastal. The most stylish and sassy editors: Heather, Turner, Jennifer, Lindsey, Jessica, and Steele. Candace, our guide and unofficial associate food editor. Amy (the other unofficial foo editor) and Kate, my neighbors on either side of my office, who probably heard more than they wanted whether I was laughing or crying or pulling my hair out before a deadline. Inspiring art designers, Erynn and Dit. Jean whose pinkness I will miss. The wordsmiths, Susan and Mindy and Shannon and Donna (I am sleep-deprived like the rest of us, so forgive my punctuation). Those who were there in the beginning: Howard, and Robbie, and James, Haskell. Lydia and Beatty….I will also miss you, David wherever you may be in the world, and Lea Anne–I hope you will continue to be the keeper of our whereabouts. Robin, thank you for always being up for a tasting. Dan, who helped me more than you will know. (Jennifer, you, and I will have a great time in Paris.) Rex, who can shoot it, design it, and write it better than many. And Bob Newman, whose afternoon craving for sweets was always a joy. The photographers, Jim Franco, Rick Lew, Ray Kachatorian, Thayer Gowdy, Ben Fink, Becky Stayner…Contributors: Julia Reed, Paula Disbrowe, Jean Anderson, Karen Barker, Stephanie Basralian, Ana Kelly, and dear sweet Sara Foster who’s always ready to taste just one more bite.

Fabulous Interns: Parker, Amy Burke, Ashley, Rachel, and Carolyn.
I will miss the letters from readers asking for a recipe or a paint color. I will miss impromptu Champagne and moonshine tastings (work-related, of course) in my office with most of you (and you know who you are). I will miss hearing someone announce a wedding, a baby, a trip to Israel, Italy, New Zealand. I will miss the Cottage Living round of applause.
I know we are currently in denial, but we will be stronger, better people for all the pain and uncertainty. I will miss you all so very much.

It’s been 2 days of non-stop dining in San Francisco which included an ice cream tasting (salted caramel, lavender honey) at Bi-Rite Creamery by owner Sam (one of the most passionate and exuberant people I’ve met in a long time), pizza at Delfina, meeting the Tamale Lady at Zeitgeist, BBQ and Sake with Bob at Memphis Minnie’s, an evening manifestation over prop 8 and a break in Dolores Park. The park stop was a quintessential San Francisco experience: I was offered afternoon ganja brownies by a lovely family, a psychic reading by a very witty and harmless drunk, and front row seats at a flag/cheerleading demonstration by a large man in a strapless gown. Actually, it felt like New Orleans any day of the year.

BBQ Wings and Sake at Memphis Minnie's, San Francisco

Sunday was much calmer. Friends, Brian and Paul took me to the Farmers’ Market in Berkeley before heading to a booksigning for Trail of Crumbs. These gorgeous bulbs of fennel hanging in the air caught my eye. I love fennel raw with lemon juice and olive oil, caramelized with shallots and a pinch of sugar to accompany roasted monkfish, or smothered with tomatoes and onions…

Here’s an easy recipe:
FENNEL SALAD
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 satsuma, peeled and sliced
lemon juice
extra-virgin olive oil
fleur de sel

Spread fennel slices on a large platter or bowl. Top with satsuma (or other citrus), a squeeze of lemon juice, and a drizzle of olive oil. Garnish with fleur de sel or other favorite salt.

If you feel the need for pork, as many of my friends do, then crisp up some pancetta slices as a garnish. I also like to shave Parmiggiano-Reggiano on top.

Try this recipe for Cider Roasted Winter Squash from Sara Foster for Cottage Living Magazine.

Dynamo Donut

Day 1 continued: Julio, Thayer, and I are still tasting San Francisco, but took a break at Blue Bottle Cafe where Aaron showed us the art of the Kyoto Drip (photo below). It’s stunning to watch and even better to taste. The choice of single-origin Mexican beans enriched this coffee with deep undertones of chocolate. Blue Bottle is also known for their siphon coffee bar, another visual treat. Aaron said that soon there will be an extended menu for breakfast and lunch.

Aaron making Siphon coffee, Blue Bottle Cafe

What’s coffee without a donut? Julio was getting into his role of Official Eater and directed us to DYNAMO DONUTS.
It seems I always run into my friend John T. Edge when I least expect it. This time, he was outside of Boulette’s Larder and then again hanging out by a taco truck in the Mission. Author of the must-read book, DONUTS (as well as FRIED CHICKEN, APPLE PIE, and HAMBURGERS & FRIES), it seemed totally fitting that he would accompany us to the walk-up donut window (below).

Eggs with Buddha’s Hand Zest at Boulette’s Larder, San Francisco

I never have time for breakfast. For me, it’s one of those meals best taken on vacation when someone else can serve it to you, preferably on a terrace overlooking the sea, or in bed after a late-night romp. But, when I’m in San Francisco, one of my favorite places to go is Boulette’s Larder in the Ferry Building. (Boulette is the lovable Hungarian Poolie who is happiest it seems under the large communal table.)

My friends, Thayer and Julio, and I simultaneously fell in love with the Citrus Eggs. A bowl of soft-folded scrambles topped with frothy cream fragrant with Buddha’s Hand citrus zest. And because I seem to be on a persimmon jag, we had to order the yogurt with persimmons. Because of so many meals in so few days, Julio and I came to an agreement: I taste, he eats. As my official SF eater, Julio claimed the persimmons to be “fleshy” and “satifsying”.

Question of the Day: HOW DO YOU LIKE YOUR EGGS?

Something sweet to savor in San Francisco at Miette…

tres leches cake

One of my favorite sweet treats is the tres leches cake at Riomar Restaurant in New Orleans. This pure indulgence is easy, decadent, and rich with coconut. Watch Chef Adolfo Garcia make tres leches.

ADOLFO GARCIA’S TRES LECHES CAKE:
If you want to save time, use your favorite store-bought sponge cake.

For 1 (8-inch) Basic Sponge Cake:
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup sifted cake flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

For the tres leches mixture:
1 (8-oz) can shredded coconut cooked in simple syrup (Goya or Ancel)
1 (14-oz) can each condensed milk
1 (12-oz) can evaporated milk
1 (12-oz) can filled with whole milk
Toppings: whipped cream, toasted almonds, caramel sauce

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease and flour an 8-inch cake pan.
Beat eggs and sugar together in a large bowl until light and fluffy.
Combine cake flour and salt; add gradually to egg mixture in thirds, stirring well after each addition. Add vanilla and melted butter and stir. Pour batter into prepared cake pan and bake at 350 degrees for 24 minutes or until tester inserted in center comes out clean. Let cool slightly.
Split cake crosswise and remove top half and set aside. Spread a thick layer of coconut onto cake. Top with remaining cake half. Poke holes in cake using a chopstick or bottom of wooden spoon. Combine the 3 milks and pour generously over cake. Cover and chill until ready to serve. Bring to room temperature and serve, topped with whipped cream, almonds, and caramel.

As a child, my plastic pumpkin was always still full the following Halloween. Perhaps this explains my fondness for savory over sweet. This is what I could round up from my office candy pool at Cottage Living–Korean ginseng candy, Korean pumpkin and sweet potato candy chews(from my trip to Seoul back in May), and French salted caramels and nougat de Montelimar. Candy never lasts long in my office thanks to an editorial staff with sweeter cravings than mine.
As if we didn’t have enough sweets today, later in the test kitchens, we are tasting shortbread recipes and sweet potato recipes from Jean Anderson.

What’s your favorite Halloween candy?

I promised some friends that I would make Thai Sticky Rice with Mango this weekend. Since I wasn’t able to find fresh, sweet mango I decided to slice ripe persimmons for this version.

STICKY RICE WITH PERSIMMON

I love to eat Thai curries with sticky rice–the nutty, glutinous accompaniment elevates the texture and flavor of the curry–and it’s also a nice cushion for the hotter versions that I always tend to prefer. As dessert, sticky rice is sweetened with coconut milk and sugar, then most commonly topped with sliced fresh mango. Depending on the season, try fresh peaches, papaya, or melon. I love the color and delicate perfume of persimmon this time of year.–ks

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1 1/2 cups sticky rice (also called glutinous or sweet rice)
2 cups canned or fresh thick coconut milk
3/4 cup lightly packed brown sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt
ripe mango or other fruit

Garnishes: toasted sesame seed, fresh mint, Thai basil, fresh cilantro

1. Soak rice in cold water, to cover, overnight. Drain rice well in a sieve. Steam rice covered, in top part of steamer lined with cheesecloth (do not let touch water), about 30 minutes or until rice is tender and glossy. You can also steam rice in a traditional conical rice steamer, covered with lid.

2. While rice is steaming, pour milk in a heavy-bottom pan over medium-high heat. Add sugar and salt and stir. Do not let milk boil, but heat and stir until sugar dissolves.

3. When rice is cooked, pour into a large bowl. Pour 1 cup warm milk mixture over rice, stir gently to combine. Place a mound of sticky rice on individual plates, top with sliced fruit, drizzle with remaining milk mixture, and garnish, if desired.

I love to sit at the open counter here and watch recent James Beard nominee, Chris Hastings, and his talented chefs, Chris Zapalowski (formerly of Emeril’s and Peristyle in New Orleans), and Bill Schleusner (of Cafe Boulud) cook up everything from Henry Fudge’s pork trio to Shrimp and Grits. For a voluptuous dessert, they now have local Petals from the Past super-ripe persimmon with almond biscotti.
Click here to watch Chris fry up burgundy okra and make his famous Hot and Hot Tomato Salad. For more Local Flavor, recipes, and cooking demos, go to myrecipes.com.

Last week, I bought a bag of dried white hominy at the market in Zihuatanejo. It was about 25°C and all I really wanted to do was swim in the ocean and drink a refreshing cucumber mojito. But now, with the cooler days of fall, I dream of long-simmered stews, and am craving hearty Mexican pozole, in particular.

POZOLE ROJO (Hominy Stew with Red Chile)

Dried hominy, which is meatier in texture than the canned, requires overnight soaking and a longer cooking time. Pozole can be green or red, depending on the chiles you choose. I usually prefer green pozole but had some New Mexico red chile powder in my freezer and came up with this version. For pozole verde, substitute diced green chiles and roasted and peeled poblano peppers for the red chile powder.

2 1/2 pounds lean pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes
2 teaspoons sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups dried hominy, soaked overnight (or 3 (15-ounce) cans white hominy)
6 cloves garlic, crushed and peeled
1 quart water
1 1/2 quarts good quality organic chicken broth, pork stock, or vegetable broth
1 large white or yellow onion, sliced
2 teaspoons dried oregano (preferably Mexican)
2 tablespoons New Mexico red chile powder (or 1 4–ounce can chopped green chiles and 1 roasted and chopped poblano)

Garnishes: sliced radish, avocado, lime wedges, sliced green cabbage or lettuce, sliced jalapenos, Mexican crema

1. Season pork with salt. Combine pork, soaked hominy, and garlic in a large pot. Add water and broth and bring to a boil, skimming froth. Reduce heat to medium and let simmer, half-covered, skimming occasionally, about 2 1/2 hours hours or until pork and pozole are very tender. Add more water or broth as liquid reduces.
2. Stir in red chile powder (or canned green chiles), onion, oregano, and let cook, on medium-low heat another 30 minutes. Note: If using canned hominy, add with chile powder and onion.
3. Taste and add more salt and pepper, as needed. Serve in bowls with garnishes at the table, and some fresh still-warm tortillas.

Garnishes: sliced radish, avocado, lime wedges, sliced green cabbage, sliced jalapeño

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Watch Jazz of Jitlada, in Thai Town, on the border of L.A.’s Little Armenia, show me how to make Chicken Coconut Soup.

Jitlada is one of the best Thai food restaurants I’ve been to in a long time. Jazz, co-owner with her brother Tui, welcomed me by first reading my palm: “You are going to be very rich,” she assured me. “You lucky woman.”
Yes, I thought, lucky to eat here and to have Jazz and Tui show me how to make some Thai basics…Read more here.