Archive for 2009

Jun I, Montréal: Uni, Funny Maki, and all that Jazz

Chef Jun Ichi (right)

After several days of foie gras and more foie gras, I stopped in at Jun I, a beautiful, simple bar a sushi. Chef Jun Ichi from Kyoto sliced up Salmon with Japanese plum and maple syrup, Kampachi with yuzu miso (a favorite), Artic Char with fresh wasabi and soy, Striped sea bass with ginger, Pernod, ...

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Montréal, Au Pied de Cochon encore…

les asperges au restaurant Au Pied de Cochon, Montreal

I couldn’t help myself…yes, there are so many wonderful restaurants in Montréal, but the giddiness and pure joy that emanates from diners and staff at Au Pied de Cochon is addictive (see previous post). The charming Denis greeted us again and suggested asparagus, and another small portion of poutine (see previous post) as well as ...

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Au Pied de Cochon, Montréal: Poutine, Bites of Sin, and More…

Terrine de foie gras

When I first asked friends where to eat in Montreal, I was told, ordered in fact, to go to Au Pied de Cochon and report back with every drool-worthy detail. The space is abuzz with beautiful people, but, unlike in certain hot spots in Manhattan or L.A., the only ogling was of other people’s plates–foie ...

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Montreal, L’express

Roasted Bone Marrow, gray sea salt, Savoy peek-a-boo cabbage leaves, L'Express, Montreal

First bites at L’Express in Montreal: cornichons and roasted bone marrow

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A New Way with Snail Mail

Snail Mail

I had been lamenting to a friend in California that I never get any interesting snail mail anymore. It’s all electronic. Even friends who have my phone number send me messages via Facebook or Twitter, rather then calling me up so I can hear a real voice. My friend got the hint and sent me ...

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Honeydew Melon with Vanilla Fleur de Sel

morning honeydew with vanilla fleur de sel

When I was a little girl, hot summers in New Orleans always signified outdoor seafood boils and fresh cold watermelon. My grandmother used to take the salt shaker and lavishly sprinkle her wedge of melon. As a child, I found this cruel and unusual. That was before I got to France and discovered fleur de ...

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New Orleans 40th Jazz and Heritage Festival, Wynton Marsalis and Afro-Latin Boogaloo Funk

cochon de lait po-boy and fried oyster spinach salad

Just got back from the first weekend of Jazz Fest 09. Love: –prejean’s pheasant, quail, and andouille gumbo, and the softshell crab po-boy -the cochon de lait po-boy and fried oyster spinach salad -that jazz fest recycles -that Jayne gets us VIP parking and my friend, Joe, actually loved Jazz Fest this year -that people were happy, no talk of recession, ...

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spring fling: baby leeks, heartbreak carnitas, and starship eggs

roasted baby leeks with tomatoes, olive oil, fleur de sel...just add toasted walnuts

Sunday spring fling with friends. Kate, gardener extraordinaire brought baby leeks and violas and chives from the garden. She also used to live in L.A. and learned to make carnitas that “will break an old man’s heart.” (Kate’s Recipe below.) She broke a lot of hearts yesterday with her tortillas, crema, carnitas, and hot hot ...

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Emeril, Jonathan Adler, India Hicks, Donna Hay, Writing Workshops and more at Studio b, Alys Beach, FL

studiob at the beach, Alys Beach, FL

Photographer Colleen Duffley has a plan b. After lots of hard work and many 2-a.m. emails, she has created Studio b, a playground for the imagination. Studio b is now and up and running. Seminars, classes and workshops with artists and designers and chefs, including India Hicks, Donna Hay, Jonathan Adler, Emeril Lagasse, Tyson Cole, ...

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Catie’s King Cake Royale


It’s a little late for King Cake, but since I no longer live in New Orleans, my friend Catie, baker and scientist extraordinaire, made me a birthday King Cake. The dough is soft and tender and we added cream cheese and almond paste and orange zest to the filling. For a moment, we thought about ...

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Iron Chef America: Judging with Jeffrey Steingarten and Andrew Knowlton

Iron Chef with Jeffrey Steingarten and Andrew Knowlton Battle Basil

Tonight I make my first appearance as a judge on Iron Chef America, along with Jeffrey Steingarten of Vogue and Andrew Knowlton of Bon Appetit. This Food Network show has been a favorite of mine for a long time. I started watching the Japanese version when I moved back to the States. Check local listings for ...

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The Flavors of Florence for ENTREE Magazine

florence for entree magazine

This just came out in ENTREE, the beautiful, glossy magazine for Neiman Marcus INCIRCLE members. Thanks to Alice Doyle and Karen Carroll for this great assignment. In the article, I write about some of my favorite foods in Florence including lusty crostini di fegatini at CAMMILLO, almond granita at CARABE, and pork arista sandwiches at ...

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A new kind of beef: Recipe development for Cooking Light

Beef Tenderloin with Maple Roasted Pears and Shallots

When I eat beef, which isn’t often, I like my cuts with substantial marbling, a nice crust, and more rare than not. I love New York Strip, but I also dream of La Boca’s Entrana Fina, the “outside skirt” grilled lovingly by Chef Jared Ralls. Jared cooks the steak skin on, so the result is ...

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Cookthink Interview


Thanks to Kristin Hohenadel and Chip Brantley of for including me in the cookthinktank as the featured author this week. This coincides with the paperback edition of TRAIL OF CRUMBS, available today in bookstores. Check out the new beautiful cover. Thanks again to everyone at Grand Central Publishing, my wonderful editor, Amy Einhorn, and ...

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